Distressed Wood Photo Backdrop
I love using texture in my photos. Whether it be a rough burlap
fabric or a distressed piece of wood, it adds so much depth and
character to an image. And for those of us who aren’t blessed with a
beautiful rustic wood tabletop, we have to resort to drastic measures.
Or not so drastic ones.
My first attempt at a distressed wood background involved getting a
long piece of beadboard cut into 2′ lengths, gluing them together, and
then painting it white. It worked, but I didn’t love the double grooves
of the beadboard. They were too strong and took away focus from the
subject. I wanted something a bit more subtle.
On our next trip to the home improvement store, I scoped out some
better materials. Lucky for us we went to a different store than our
regular one, and there I found some “Pine Board Scants” or “Craft
Boards” (signs were conflicting – I don’t know what they were actually
called). Basically, it is a 3 1/2″ wide board like normal lumber, but it
is only 1/4″ thick. And since my puny little arms are going to have to
lift this thing on a regular basis, thinner boards were exactly what I
was looking for. They had a variety of different widths, so you could
get wider or thinner boards based on your preference. I found these
particular boards at Lowes. Home Depot (at least the one we usually go
to) didn’t have anything comparable.
This same process can definitely be done with standard 3/4″ thick
wood, but your final product will be a lot more bulky, especially if you
do the double layer for a reversible background.
For this specific background you will need twelve 3.5″ wide, 2′ long
boards, plus two 2.5″ wide boards to make a perfect square. Arrange half
of the boards in one direction, and tape in place. I wanted a very
small but still distinguishable gap between the boards, the tape helped
keep it in place while I glued.
Next, lay the other half of the boards in the opposite direction,
gluing in place with wood glue, carefully positioning boards so the gaps
are to your liking. Careful not to put too much glue, you don’t want it
to ooze through the gabs (or, er, glue it to your floor…)
When the boards are glued in place, put a flat, heavy weight (like an
upside down coffee table or a whole lot of books) on top and let dry
overnight. You could also use wood clamps if you have them, but
basically you just want something that will hold the pieces firmly
together until the glue is dry.
Now it’s ready to paint!
For my paint, I simply picked up a few sample containers of paint.
$2/a piece, and more than enough paint to cover my little 2×2′
background. One sort of a medium greenish brown color (called Truffle),
white, and then two shades of turquoise. My plan was to make use of both
sides of the board, have one painted basic white, and the other a
pretty bright turquoise.
I wanted the wood to look old, not new. Old wood is dark, and I wanted some of that darkness to show through.
Start by watering down your brown paint. I used probably 50/50 water
to paint. But I suggest (and this is what I did) testing your finishes
first. I started with the end board, since I knew it wouldn’t show too
much in the photographs, and then when I was happy with that finish I
repeated the same process for the rest of the board.
Water down your paint, and then brush a coat onto each board, one a
time. You want full coverage with this layer. Then take a cloth or paper
towel and, while the paint is still wet, wipe it off. This will make
the paint act more like a stain than a paint. You can see that the
overall color is darker, but the wood grain still shows through. Let
this layer dry completely before continuing (or if you’re impatient like
me, grab the hair dryer).
Next, time for color. I decided to use two shades of turquoise for
added depth. I started with the darker one. Using a fairly dry brush,
lightly brush on the color. You don’t want a ton of paint on your brush;
spotty coverage and missed spots are good. Brush strokes are good.
Rough is good. Move quickly, and don’t overthink it. You can always add
more paint, but you can’t take it off. Again, let this layer dry
completely.
You can then add the second shade if you have one. I used a lighter
turquoise, and you can see the difference between the 1st coat and the
second. Similar technique, again, you don’t want a solid coat, you want
some of that dark brown wood and the darker turquoise underneath to show
through.
When all was done and dry, my board had a bit too much sheen to it
(samples only came in satin, not eggshell or flat). Easy fix, I just
took some fine grain sandpaper to it to dull and further roughen the
finish. You can see the final result in the kumquat picture above.
Initially, the plan was to repeat the same process on the back but
paint it white. But I was kind of digging the dark stain all by itself,
and decided to leave it that way… at least for now. Who knows, I may
come back later and continue with the white. Or I may just make a second
one altogether.
And there you have it! For about $40, you have a portable, reversible wood backdrop for your photos! Spiffy!